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Most of the chemicals are WAKO'S, but only the engine oil is MOTUL.
I've always had a paranoid trust in WAKO'S. The results of my own use... But I still have FUEL1 and Variascort in my toolbox. However, I still have a lot of chemicals in my toolbox, such as FUEL1, Variascort, and water displacement chemicals such as chain lube and silicone spray.
Engine oil, too, for a while.I had WAKOS Prostage S in it.But... The first time I put 300V in, I was so shocked....
[Blog post on the first 300VQuoting from]
I immediately got on the highway from Tomei Kawasaki, and was surprised to find that the Motul 300v was amazing, as I had felt immediately after the oil change the day before.
It's overwhelming. When cruising at high speed, the mechanical noise was noticeably less. I could even hear the tire noise and the air intake noise better than usual. The engine runs smoother than usual, and the speed range where I can cruise comfortably is about +20km. If I were to use an analogy, I'd say it's like there's a thin, slimy film between the metal parts that are in contact with each other, and they're spinning smoothly without direct contact. Even so, the rise and fall of the rotation is very smooth.
It's not something I can really feel, but it probably reduces vibration while driving, and I have the impression that I get tired differently when cruising in the passing lane.
I've seen comments like, "All oils are the same, but Motul 300V is something else," and even a layman can feel it....
300V is too good to be true.
Whenever I look up engine oil, Motul's 300V is always mentioned as one of the best oils.
That's why I changed to 300V before I went out touring the other day.
In fact, at first, when I went touring after changing to the 300V, the engine felt hot. But it was simply because the engine revved up to the upper rpm range, so even though I thought I was driving the same as usual, the normal rpm range was much higher. I can cruise at high speed in 5th gear at passing lane speed.
It's usually 7100.
However, when I change the oil at home, I use 7100, which is also a synthetic oil with esters from Motul.
On the Ninja 650, the oil filter is located behind the exhaust pipe and the bike has a full cowl, so changing the filter is a bit of a hassle. I leave it to the store to change the filter every two oil changes. The oil filter is located at the back of the exhaust pipe.
The difference between the 300V and 7100 is about 600 yen per liter (as of September 27, 2019) according to Amazon prices; the Ninja 650 only needs less than 2 liters of oil even when changing the filter, so the difference is about 1,000 yen for a normal oil change.
I've been using 7100 for a while now, but I'm not sure if I want to mix it with different oil since I usually have some left over... So I continue to use 7100.
By the way, the difference in performance between the 300V and the 7100 is very large.... The difference in performance between the 7100 and the 300V is huge.On the contrary, it was running at 7100."Oil Goodness"I've never felt anything like that.
I think I'm going to change my home to 300V.
[Question] What about long term engine protection?
On the other hand, if the engine is running too smoothly"Engine Protection"I'm just wondering, "What's the point? I'm just wondering. You know, they often say that mineral oil is better for old cars with weak compression and clearance due to wear... You know what they say.
I wonder if the smoothness of the 300V is actually hard on the engine. After all, my Ninja 650 is an inexpensive parallel twin made in Thailand.
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